This post is geared toward anyone who has a bricked, or dead, OLPC which is out of warranty and who is not afraid to tear into it... It serves to encourage others by describing the process to fix the real time clock battery issue under the original G1G1 firmware. You will need a $10 serial adapter and either a soldering iron with a very small tip or an appropriate connector for J1 (more on that below.)
Last night, I received my laptop from an ebay seller and found it to behave exactly like Richard described. The battery and power LEDs blinked appropriately, but the screen sadly never lit up. The seller said the machine worked perfectly prior to shipment, and by all appearances it was brand new. I had no reason to doubt his claim. Soon afterwards, a web search landed me in this forum discussion, and on a few other pages describing the symptoms and possible solutions.
I found the OLPC a dream to disassemble. Four screws and a couple slides later, and the front cover was off. Removing the four screws on the LCD and then lifting it allowed me access to the screws holding on the rear cover (they are marked with triangles.) There is no reason to disconnect the electrical ribbons going to the LCD; simply slide the LCD carefully just enough to expose the four screws. Then put the LCD back and replace one of the bottom screws to hold it there for now. Upon removal of the back cover, you may find the RTC battery falls out of its holder like I did. This is a good sign, since it means this fix will likely work! I put it back in an used a couple dabs of hot-glue to prevent future problems. The machine still would not boot, as expected.
I found this page
http://wiki.laptop.org/go/Fix_Clock describing how the real time clock could be set using a special serial adapter. The serial adapters referenced in the article are found described here:
http://wiki.laptop.org/go/Serial_adapters and there is actually nothing really special to them. The only real challenge is interfacing to the serial connector on the OLPC motherboard.
This picture shows two connectors on the motherboard:
http://wiki.laptop.org/go/Image:BtestRecovery.jpgBut ignore the "recovery connector" outlined in the photo. I actually tried talking to that one first, and while you can communicate with it, it's not the one I used to reset the clock. I instead used J1, the 4-pin white connector to the right of the "EtronTech" chip. What this means is you don't need to remove the large metal plate covering the center of the card. The pinout for J1 is on the serial adapter page
http://wiki.laptop.org/go/Serial_adapters about halfway down. It is always smart to VERIFY with a multimeter before you hook up wires that Pin 1 is indeed at 3.3v with the laptop power on, and you measure little to no resistance between pin 4 and ground.
Turn the power back off and remove the battery for this next step...
As I mentioned above, the challenge is to find a connector that fits J1. I didn't have one. Instead, I soldered very fine wires (wire-wrap wire, to be exact) to the BACK of the connector. This way, if I ever wanted to use the right connector, I wouldn't have problems with residual solder on the pins. I then ran these wires to a board I had from another project:
http://www.kronosrobotics.com/xcart/pro ... 261&page=1The board performs the same function as the original OLPC developer serial adapter. It converts and inverts the 3.3v serial signal on J1 to RS-232 on the serial connector. The chip is rated for 5v, but runs just as well on 3.3v for our purposes. There are USB converters available that do the same thing, so just look on the web and you should find one easily. They'll be more than $10, though. For instance:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/produc ... ts_id=8165Finally, I hooked the board to another computer and set my terminal to 115,200 baud, 8N1. On booting the laptop, I saw "Fort" displayed on my computer, followed a few seconds later with more debug information. Following the exact procedure found at the bottom of this page:
http://wiki.laptop.org/go/Fix_Clock I was able to correctly set the time in the RTC.
On the following boot, then laptop then came back to life. Trust in knowing the very first order of business was to update the firmware. Yay for being geeky!
Now to request my developer key to see what other trouble I can get in.
Questions? I'll do what I can to help with answers, but remember I'm standing on the shoulders of all those who wrote the pages I referenced above. A big thanks to them and the whole OLPC team.
-Gary